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A seafarers鈥� town from the 1600s to the era of nuclear submarines, New London weathered 20th-century decline and is now a stop for cruise ships. It鈥檚 also the childhood homeof America鈥檚 only Nobel prize-winning playwright, Eugene O鈥橬eill. Admire the waterfront statue of O鈥橬eill as a 7-year-old, sketching a ship, or toast his memory at the Dutch Tavern on Green Street, largely unchanged from when it was one of his favorite watering holes. Then tour O鈥橬eill鈥檚 boyhood home, the Monte Cristo Cottage (325 Pequot Avenue; www.theoneill.com; $7), which became the setting for both 鈥淎h, Wilderness!鈥� and 鈥淟ong Day's Journey Into Night.鈥� When the tour is done, sample one of the ethnic restaurants in the walkable downtown and shop for artwork at galleries like the Yah-Ta-Hey (279 State Street, 860-443-3204), which sells American Indian art, and by Design, a fine arts store and gallery (66 Bank Street, 860-447-9170).