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Newburyport and Plum Island, at the mouth of the Merrimack River, combine shops, boutiques and maritime heritage with breathtaking views and beaches. The sea captains of 200 years ago are gone, but in town, the charm of their stately homes and commercial buildings remains. Plum Island is an 11-mile-long-barrier beach connected to the mainland by a narrow road that passes over gorgeous marshes. The Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, established in 1942 to protect bird habitats, takes up three-quarters of the island (www.fws.gov/northeast/parkerriver; 978-465-5753; $5 per car). The wide, sandy oceanside beach is open to the public, although some areas are restricted during nesting season. Trails, towers and platforms for observation are plentiful. Rangers restrict access to limit the crowds, so on busy summer days, arrive early.