By Dennis K. Zhao
The year of 1994 was a milestone on a historical road of the textile trade development worldwide. The Final Act concluding the Uruguay Round and officially establishing the WTO regime was signed during ministerial meeting at Marrakesh, Morroco on the 15th of April, 1994, and hence is known as the Marrakesh Agreement. That marked a beginning of quota phase out . China has been on a resolute stance to trade restrictions and protectionism all through quota phase out and post-quota period and will continue to do so when safeguard deal terminates...
The Third Phase (1994 -2004): Quota Phase-Outs
A glimpse of history in quota regime The year of 1994 was a milestone on a historical road of the textile trade development worldwide. A big event took place in April 1994 that witnessed an unprecedented achievement at Uruguay Round which had been launched at Punta del Este, Uruguay on 20 September 1986. The Final Act concluding the Uruguay Round and officially establishing the WTO regime was signed during ministerial meeting at Marrakesh, Morroco on the 15th of April, 1994, and hence is known as the Marrakesh Agreement.
The establishment of the World Trade Organization (WTO) was a lot more significant , especially for developing countries. Exports of textiles and clothing from developing countries had long faced restrictive blocks to their exports called quotas. Brought in force as a temporary relief measure in favor of the domestic textile manufacturers in the developed countries, this quota system had been in force for decades now. In 1962, a Long Term Agreement (LTA) regarding international trade in cotton textiles was signed. It replaced the one-year Short Term Agreement that existed at the time. LTA underwent several renewals and was subsequently replaced by the Multi Fibre Agreement (MFA) in 1974, which was expanded to cover exports of synthetic fibres and woolen products, besides cotton. The MFA regime existed for over twenty years, until 1994 when the Uruguay Round of Multilateral Trade Negotiations resulted in the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC). The ATC sought to phase out all quota restrictions in four phases spread over a period of 10 years. The first three partial phase-outs were in January 1995, January 1998 and January 2002. The final one is due on January 01, 2005.
Smooth Growth
The phase out of MFA was largely welcomed by exporting countries, but it did not bring about immediate export growth for China as the most sensitive categories that accounted for 49% of the total MFA -capped trade still remained unchanged until the very last day prior to Jan.1st of 2005. China's export of textiles and clothing was experiencing a smooth stack-up to reach $37.967 billion in 1995, only a minor growth 6.8% in the initial year of quota phase out as against $35.548 billion in 1994. When the first phase out (three years from 1995 to 1997) moved into its 2nd year of 1996, China's export turned out to be a negative growth to compare with the year before in terms of both export value and national share.
From the year of 2002 to the end of 2004, the last three years of MFA phase out according to the Agreement of Textiles and Clothing (ATC) witnessed a rapid and stark export growth from China to reach $95.29 billion in 2004, 20.68% up as opposed to the previous year's figure (the year of 2003), but its growth speed slowed down by 6.96 percentage point on a year-on-year comparison.
The last year during the 10-year phase out of quota regime was nothing but dramatic. Fearing that China would dominate the world textile market after quantitative restriction was gone, National Council of Textile Organizations (USA) joined hands with Turkish
textile manufacturers association and many other industrial bodies from other countries to work out an announcement known as "Istanbul Declaration" designed to mount pressure on WTO to postpone the deadline of quota elimination. The Istanbul Declaration was first endorsed on March 3rd 2004 in Istanbul by leading Turkish and American textile and apparel trade groups. Groups from Mexico signed two days later and were then joined the following week by groups representing Sub-Saharan Africa. The following week, European textile and apparel groups endorsed the Declaration. A week later, leading South American groups endorsed the Declaration. The Declaration calls for an emergency meeting of the World Trade Organization in order to examine whether the quota phase-out currently scheduled for January 1st, 2005 should be extended until December 31st, 2007 or some other actions should be taken.
The very presumptuous, invidious, heart-catching but not convincing statement is tantamount to stirring up a global rival against China. It says "if quotas are removed on January 1st, 2005 global textile and clothing trade will be monopolized by a few countries such as China. The consequence will be massive job disruption and business bankruptcies in dozens of countries dependant upon textile and clothing exports." "In textile categories in the United States where a number of quotas have already been eliminated, China has taken almost 60 percent of the market in less than two years and is continuing to increase its share. Chinese textile exports have also quickly captured a dramatic portion of the market in other regions and countries, including the EU, Japan, and Australia. China's massive growth has come at the expense of virtually all other participants in the market, especially the least developed and the developing countries which are poised to lose as many as 30 million jobs due to the quota phase-out." Regardless of these loud but nebulous cries, WTO remained irrevocably wedded to its decision to terminate quota on the very frst day of Jan.1st 2005 without delay.
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